¡Bienvenidos a Alcalá de Henares, España, my new hometown for the semester! One week in and I'm still trying to wrap my head around the fact that I'm on the other side of the Atlantic.
Brief bio: Alcalá de Henares is a small city about an hour or less east of Madrid, where Spanish writer Cervantes lived (best known for his novel Don Quijote), and also where Ignatius of Loyola had studied. Historical fun facts, booyah. The most central part of the city includes the Plaza de Cervantes on Calle Mayor where there are many shops and restaurants, including taparías and panerías, and also where most of the buildings for the University of Alcalá de Henares are located. Most of my studies will take place at Alcalingua, the language institute of the University. The city is clearly very old, but it's adorable in its antiquity. I love the colors and the architecture and feel of the town, so far I love it here!
Towards the end of summer, I had been growing increasingly nervous and anxious about my arrival and the adjustment process, and being able to communicate clearly in a language I hadn't practiced for months. And after a stressful stretch of days spent packing and last minute shopping and counting down the minutes left with family and friends, I was more or less freaking out by the time we stepped onto the plane. There's no doubt about it, when we arrived in Spain we dove right into the culture, but there are still many moments where it all feels so surreal. However, it's been nothing short of amazing so far, and I'm running out of adequate synonyms for the damn adjective. After a sleepy bizarre day one, and an active and invigorating day two, I knew I had made one of the best decisions of my life.
Home life
The family I am staying with this semester is wonderful. My host parents are generous and patient, and are willing to explain things and clue me in when I'm lost, which I am extremely grateful for seeing as that occurs multiple times a conversation (but I'm getting better! :]) There are few moments when they are not laughing or smiling about something, making it a very happy environment, por ejemplo, today my host father was singing as he was putting away groceries. While they both love to ask me questions and hear about how things are in the states, I probably talk with my host mom the most. She is so sweet, and I can tell she loves being able to share their traditions and their culture with me. Their home is a cozy townhouse in a little complex with a community pool, and it's quite lovely. They both participate in cooking meals, and I'm not exaggerating when I say that I've enjoyed everything I've eaten here thus far, even the spinach and tuna lasagna (cue my parents' shock). Weird, right? I don't know how, I really don't. Jamón (ham) and pescado (seafood) are common main dish features, but there is so much variety that so far I haven't felt any redundancy in meals. I'm sure that having ham in everything here is comparable to having chicken in everything in the states, I mean, let's be real, how many various recipes do you know that involve chicken? I've never tried so many different things in one week, and never imagined I would enjoy all of it this much!
My host "sisters," ages 18 and 21, are also very kind and patient, and I've really enjoyed their company while at the house. From the beginning we've been able to joke and laugh and find interests that we share. The older daughter and I like a lot of the same bands, and I'm finding that the younger daughter and I think a lot alike, making it easy to be myself and goof around, especially when I can only partially communicate what I'm thinking as it is! They've willingly driven me places, escorted me to the main plaza and around town at night and included me to hang out with their friends by their community pool. And while I try and participate here and there in conversation, even just sitting and listening has helped me adapt a bit more.
I've spent at least two afternoons talking to the kids by the pool, where even the younger kids hang out with the older ones, all joking around and jumping on each other as kids on any neighborhood block would. They have been there every day when I walk home from the plaza, so it's no surprise to me how close they all are, regardless of age. The boys get a kick out of spitting out English phrases and I've enjoyed interpreting lyrics from American songs. They listen to a surprising amount of American music and watch so many American movies, I had no idea! It's just so interesting to interact with them, because much of it really feels the same, just in another language. Each day with them is like another puzzle, because I don't know everything yet, but that's what makes it so curious. I feel extremely fortunate to be living with girls my age who are willing to share their lives and their home with me, but also to be a friend towards me as well. I'm sure my experience would have been drastically different without a full family, seeing as I've been talking much more at the house than I would have if I didn't have "siblings" around.
Then there's the pets! Their two dogs, Britney and Mick Jagger are the cutest little Malteses I've ever seen. God knows I'm gonna miss my little white dog, so how fortunate I am to have two new furry friends here! Yesterday I walked them with my host mom and they kept stopping each time we passed through shade, it was quite humorous. And like Riley, they do tricks too! It's so cute to see them respond to things in Spanish. I'm still getting used to the cat factor, seeing as there are three of them and two of the three (Milou mostly, and Magu, who is blind) tend to appear on my bed a second after I open my door (the third is named Glen, but he tends to stay outside). And with cats comes hair, and well, it's everywhere already, including my keyboard..? * vigorously sweeps computer* ew. But I'm not really complaining cause they really are adorable. It just means I have to be more conscious of my open door. Needless to say, in this house, it's definitely the more the merrier, so I'm blessed to be in good company, animals and all!
Yesterday the family included me in their plans to visit their grandmother for her 76th birthday, which was really kind of them, because they certainly aren't expected to. She lives on the other side of Alcalá, and on the way over, my host mom explained the dynamic and a bit about my host father's sisters, and that they usually only go to their mother's small apartment twice a year for her birthday and el Día de los Reyes Magos on January 6 (day of the Magi Kings, which is kind of like their separate day for Christmas morning, but the Kings deliver gifts instead of Santa). As soon as we got there, I was welcomed and encouraged to feel at home. We spent most of the afternoon eating and talking, although many parts of the conversation I could still only half understand. The quieter I was, the more I was pressured to come mas! (eat more haha) But their aunts were so nice and they all included me in the conversation as much as they could and were patient enough to let me speak and participate. I enjoyed the entire afternoon, and much of their interactions reminded me of my own family.
One of the traditions they have when gathering in early September is designating "secret Santas" although I forgot the name they actually called it once they were trying to explain it to me. After writing down everyone's names, kids and adults alike, and put them in a cup to choose one person for whom they must make a gift for el Día de los Reyes Magos. They do this instead of buying expensive gifts for everyone, and in doing this the gifts are much more meaningful. They had me participate by passing around the cup from person to person, and we were all amused because it took so many tries before everyone selected one without someone choosing their own name.
One moment that particularly struck me from the day: one of my host father's sisters had made a few CDs for their other sister, and she wanted to play some of the songs for her as we were all sitting together. Lo and behold, the first song she turns on is one of my favorite songs by Sia, and happens to be my ringtone. I was then able to share with them that Sia was one of my favorite artists, to which their aunt was joyed to know that I liked her as much as she did. It was not an extreme coincidence, although very few of my friends at home know of Sia, but I felt equally shocked and relieved. Weird as this sounds, it felt like another reassurance that I'm not alone here, and that any familiarities in a place that is so foreign to me are a blessing. Little unities make a big difference. It's so nice to feel comfortable and be in company of a family that treats me as so when I'm so far from my own.
Week One Observations
Some of the most notable things so far regarding Spanish lifestyle are how meals and the seasonal weather seem to influence the schedule structure. Each meal is important, and usually invites the family together. Saying that seems bizarre, since in the good ol' U.S. we push ourselves regardless of whether we "have time" to eat and regardless of the season (But then again, I don't feel like getting into all the things that don't work in America, I'll save that blog for another lifetime). But it's true, that instead of taking the time to sit down, unwind, eat a meal and detach ourselves, we remain constantly plagued by "work." Even when we try and get away, it lingers in the back of our minds, and sometimes we even feel guilty taking the time to make ourselves sane.
But here, everything closes in the afternoon around 2, and the streets become increasingly silent and empty as everyone departs for home (or for lunch out elsewhere). Lunch itself lasts close to two or three hours, depending on whether you nap or not, and it involves cooking a full meal, sitting down at the table with your family, going for a walk, or simply resting. And then it's back to work until about 8 or so, because dinner won't be needed until closer to 9-9:30! And if there is any recreational event, it occurs late into the night following dinner around 11! The week that we arrived, for example, was the week of La Feria (the fair) that annually occurs in August in Alcalá . From 10pm - ? the streets and main plazas were packed with teens and families with young children and older couples, eating at sidewalk tables or listening to the concert in the square, and this schedule is typical of most weekends in summer. But, it's practical, particularly with the heat of summer, to go home and rest at the hottest point of the day, and to go out late when the temperature is much cooler and more enjoyable. It's astounding to see the contrast in livelihood between 3 in the afternoon and 1 in the morning here.
And then there's the sleep pattern! One would wonder, if they don't finish dinner until 11:30, how do they get up for work in the morning?! Well, simple. Because they separate their home life from their work life twice a day, the second time for the night. I honestly believe it's the detachment at the end of the day that makes it possible to feel more relaxed, regardless of how many hours of sleep you actually get. And the more relaxed you are off the job, I can only imagine how much more productive those hours spent actually working would be. Mind you, I'm not speaking from experience, but I'm getting the sense that the Spaniards (and possibly many other Europeans that follow the siesta lifestyle) have it figured out. It's not that stress doesn't exist in Spain, it's not some magical time zone where everything's easy and pleasant–no. But they do have the right idea when it comes to establishing a lifestyle that helps manage it and comfortably balances "work and play."
The climate itself is also noteworthy, especially the fact that the screen-less window in my room has been open since before I arrived, and I haven't had reason to close it since. The doors and windows in the house are often just kept open for the breeze, and as far as I know we haven't used the air conditioning much since I've been here. The air where we are in Spain is dry, and not very humid, and for that reason only when I'm in the sun is it really hot, and in the mornings and evenings the air is significantly cooler. This means that when it's winter, the air is going to be veryyy dry and cold, but I don't want to think about that yet!
Classes
In total, I will be taking six courses this semester, but luckily for the month of September we only have one at the language institute of the university from Monday to Friday and another with our director on Tuesdays and Thursdays which continues into the semester. The other four will begin in October, as the first one ends, including a contemporary Spanish theatre literature course that is taught at the university itself, with Spanish students (yikes!), but it seems strategically planned, and although it will get gradually more difficult, speaking in general is bound to get gradually less taxing, so it should all work out somehow. The bonus to staying in Alcalá is that we learn so much outside of the classroom, just being with Spanish families and talking and eating with them has made such a difference in adjusting and understanding the culture more.
On Friday we had our first intensive language class, and after being placed in what seems to be an intermediate level, so far it feels fitting. One of the questions we were asked after introducing ourselves and explaining why we wanted to study Spanish, our teacher prompted us to share objectives that we had by studying Spanish in Spain, to which I answered that I would like to eventually dream in Spanish. Once my subconscious mind figures out the whole think in Spanish without thinking first in English thing, that must mean my conscious mind will finally be getting somewhere with it also. Right away she said I would be able to within three or four weeks, so I'm hoping this to be true! I might even shoot for writing a few poems in Spanish along the way, we shall see ;]
Along the way I will be updating about specific trips/adventures/places we explore or encounter, seeing as this first post is enough of a novel as it is. Read further and stay tuned to learn about my experiences and observations from the start of my exciting experience studying and living in Alcalá! Coming soon: updates on our trips to Madrid and Asturias! :]
That's all for now folks, hasta luego!